Thank you so much, Shannon! That was very helpful information. I think we'll protect our investment and just stick with tile and save the headache. I love the character that wood gives in a master bath, but we don't have much of a budget for tile from out builder so the wood-like ceramic is not an option.
We picked out white cabinets and light tan colored counter tops. Thank you Chroma Design: We have done a lot of research on the different types of flooring, thus why we chose Acacia. Its one that was highly recommended by several different flooring places because we have two dogs and a toddler.
The actual one we chose is handscraped Tobacco Road, so that should also help "hide" any actual scratches or dents it may get over time. We live in Northern New York, so humidity is an issue as well as us only using baseboard heating and no forced air in the house.
I understand your delemma. If the bath wears quicker than the bedroom and you have to refinish the bath, they will no longer match beacuse you will have sanded out the handscraping. Your liability will come down to water exposure. And it is a tough call becuase no matter how cautious you are, water has a way of getting where you don't want it. Should you do the wood, here is a tip.
Let's say you are running the boards perpendicular to the bath doorway. Keep the rooms seperate by using a flooring board as a threshold to the door. Having this threshold would give you a clear line if you had to refinish and a break if something catastropic happened that you had to replace the bath flooring. You wouldn't need to disturb the wood in the bedroom. Here is a pic to make clear what I mean.
This is the archway between my living and dining rooms. My designer friends said i was foolish to create this break but it was specifically my intention to give definition to each of these small rooms.
Some of them do it now too. I never would have thought to do that. I think we are going to run some things by our builder and see what he suggests as well. Like Save. I love the look that wood flooring would give. My builder also said he wants to take the floor tile and tile the drop-in tub area with that. I don't know if I like that look much, so coming up with tile that wouldn't be just so one dimentional all over the bathroom is difficult. The picture I attached is the bathroom rough framework, with a view from our walkin closet.
The tub is going to be under the windows and shower in the bottom left corner. If you did engeneered wood in bedroom and tile in bath, you would use a metal transition just like in the photo you posted. I'm not sure doing a tile border in the bath with a wood center would look good. Plus that scenario only protects the perimeter, not the center wood. I like the vanity. With its legs, you would be able to see the two flooring types and I don't like where it breaks under the vanity.
There are many ways to enclose a tub. Tile is one. What will the walls be around the drop in tub? Could you use the tile from your shower area? Many options. You could also building a panel surround with the same shaker detail found in the vanity and painted either your trim color or painted like the vanity. Depends on how you intend to use the vanity color elsewhere in the bath. Happened to bid floors this morning and talked to my favorite installer You'd need to be absolutely meticulous.
There could be no dampness in the bathmat it permeates and no standing water on the floor from wet people stepping out of a bath, a shower or dripping on the floor while washing faces or brushing teeth.
It sounds like a pain even to me, and I'm constantly choosing look over function for myself and even I wouldn't do wood floor of any kind in a master bath. I am very concerned for your future maintenance. That said, if you love it and have to have it I get that too!! I have a photo of wood tiles next to real wood. Here you go Maybe some interesting tile for a boarder, or a different color with a boarder around the room.
If you're still thinking of hardwood, a factory applied aluminum oxide finish with a thick veneer to avoid the nicks and dents problems mentioned by jarabshian5. And Chroma's plywood layers are what prevents warping it seems. What tile are you using on the shower walls? Could a version of that a different size, a different shape, a complimentary color be the "wet room" floor?
That way you can avoid all the concerns and rest assured that the flooring is tried and true for dealing with heavy water and steam application and it wouldn't have to be a crisis if someone left a watery footprint or a seal at the shower door allowed water to drip down the outside, etc, etc, etc.
You would just wipe it up! If it were a powder room, I'd likely be fine with it! Here's the photo we used color change, width change and direction change. Shannon: Thank you for your response!
After reading other responses and yours, Im pretty certain we are going to do some sort of ceramic tile on the floor now instead. I just don't want to have the constant worry about the floors warping or getting ruined, even if they are very hardy and beautiful.
We'll have to look into some other options. What is the best way to go about picking out tiling for a master bathroom? I feel completely lost and overwhelmed with all the possibilities. Our builder also stated that he wants to take the floor tile up the side of the drop-in tub, but I just don't really like that look on most pictures I've seen. I think I want to find a similar color tile for the shower, and run that down the bottom of the tub area and up as a back splash with a smaller mosaic glass tile of a sort for some interest in shower area as well.
As long as it doesn't clash with the flooring. Any suggestions would be great. I love the look of the picture you posted! Beautiful- nice, cool tones. I'm glad you resolved the flooring delemma! Worry free goes a long way! SO many people share that overwhelmed feeling! Going to your local tile showroom is sometimes a good way to start, there's no replacement for seeing it in person, if you have a bath ideabook on Houzz, you can show the staff your favorite photos from your phone or print it out and have them help you rebuild the look.
It may be valuable to buy a few hours of a designer's time. They will come to your house for a consult, see your taste and discuss your needs, and then you can ask them to pull tile selections to show to you and they'll bring it to your home and show you if you specify that this is the service you want.
You can agree on the amount of hours in advance, or you can use them on retainer to push through as many decisions as possible in the time you are paying them for. There are literally s of decisions coming down the pike, and often Interior Designers can pay for themselves in value by extending their discount to you, or preventing costly changes that eat time and send labor costs through the roof.
It'll be some of the best money you ever spent. Deferring to contractor's expertise is great because they have seen a lot of projects and know what works but it may not get you YOUR bathroom. It may get you the bath that's in their head. Make sure you love their taste if you go that route. There are designers from tons of metro area listed in the professionals section of this site, check a few out!
Also keep doing what you're doing. Take your time. Pull photo reference here on Houzz, look in current magazines, go to the tile showroom a few times. Do not plan your bathroom from a home improvement store selection. Soon you'll be soaking in that tub looking around at your new bath feeling like you did all the right things!
Mega Builders 5 years ago. Bottom line, don't do it. Becky B 4 years ago. There are different kinds of engineered hardwood floors I think. We had one where if you spilled water you better ran for a towel fast, or else. It was hard to clean to. The one we have now is different. Our Lab puppy peed on it and threw up on it more than once.
As long as you are installing engineered wood, you can select virtually any species. But white oak, red cedar, and redwood are especially good options for a bathroom floor.
Engineered wood flooring is manufactured by layering wood on top of one another, capped by a veneer of solid wood, which often varies in thickness, averaging around 5mm, but often exceeding 10mm depending on the quality of the product. Each of the layers is very carefully secured with special wood glue to ensure that a cross-grain construction is made, which lends to its robustness and good threshold to water and dampness.
In addition, this also helps prevent the wood from bending over time, which can be one of the big issues that homeowners face with traditional flooring methods. Engineered hardwood flooring is dimensionally stable and therefore does not fluctuate too much in response to humidity, so it is generally best to go with engineered floors instead of solid wood. And though moisture — both in liquid form and as water vapor — can cause problems in engineered wood floors, the presence of enough water to damage an engineered hardwood floor indicates a more severe problem that will eventually cause problems with any type of floor.
In that case, that water will eventually work its way into the subfloor anyway, regardless of the floor covering. There are several advantages to be found when choosing engineered wood flooring over other flooring options. One of these is that it is often considered more universal by nature; since engineered wood floors are generally only about three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch thick, they can be fitted on top of existing floor surfaces, including often tricky concrete floors.
In addition, it is also considered more flexible and easier to install and maintain than many alternatives. Engineered wood also comes prefinished or finished in the pack — meaning no further preparation such as waxing or oiling of the wood needs to take place.
This not only cuts down on extra costs for finishing products but also means that your flooring is ready to go, straight out of the box, saving you or your re-fitter costly additional labor time.
Is engineered wood flooring durable? The simple answer is yes, and the better you care for the floor, the longer it is likely to last. Maintenance of engineered wood flooring is simple to carry out and can be as easy as applying a quality laminate and wood cleaner ever so often. These specialist cleaners are neutral detergents that form a self-polishing film, highly resistant to wear and dirt that helps clean and protect the product.
Added bonus? Waterproof hardwoods are wet-mop safe, making them easy to clean and maintain. With five different options, the H2OME City Spa Collection of single-stained, wide-plank hardwood floors provide an even overall look for your finished floor in a range of dark to light colors. All wire-brushed, City Spa brings sophistication to the whole home, not just to your bathroom.
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